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Mare a Mare Nord, Day 5: A Sega – Albertacce

Some early birds - literally - accompany us polyphoniccaly to the foot of a mountain. With bated breath we listen to the endearing birdsongs, which, like a magic spell, suck us deeper and deeper into the forest. The golden-yellow rays of the awakening morning sun break with tight stripes through the thick foliage. Could a …

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Mount Everest Base Camp Trek, Day 15: Namche Bazar – Lukla

None other than Jimmy Carter, the 39th president of America, slept in the lodge where we also spent the night tonight. A metal memorial on the wall should remind us of this great moment. But in addition to the president, many other notorious people have slept in this lodge, which was built at no less …

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Mount Everest Base Camp Trek, Day 14: Pangboche – Namche Bazar

We slept like roses. That was to be expected after such a beautiful evening in an even more beautiful company. Last night, while our hostess was stirring in her pots and pans to provide us with a delicious supper, a nice little lady of a thousand years old put two chairs next to the stove. …

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Mount Everest Base Camp Trek, Day 13: Gorak Shep – Pangboche

Shivering from the cold, we have breakfast at the lodge of Gorak Shep. While we are preparing for the great descent, we notice that one of the employees of the lodge slept on one of the wooden benches last night. He didn’t have anything more than a thin blanket to keep warm. As much luxury …

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Mount Everest Base Camp Trek, Day 12: “D-Day”

There has been quite a storm last night. When we look outside the window in the morning we see that the thunderstorm was accompanied by a considerable layer of fresh snow. Later today we will find out that around 3 o'clock at night a group had started the climb towards the Island Peak. When they left, …

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Mount Everest Base Camp Trek, Day 11: Dzongla – Lobouche

Today we treat ourselves to sleep in a bit. Well deserved after yesterday's tough hiking day, if I may say so myself. When we leave Dzongla, the Spaniard, who was yelling about ice axes on the Cho-La pass yesterday, is sitting outside together with his friends. It turns out to be a congenial group of …

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Mount Everest Base Camp Trek, Day 10: Dragnag – Dzongla

The morning starts well. Wim brushes his teeth with eye ointment. That’s what you get when your husband starts messing around in your toilet bag. The decor in which we are brushing our teeth, however, is beautiful. A unique experience in itself. But it will probably get even more unique today. After all, we have …

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Mount Everest Base Camp Trek, Day 8: Machhermo – Gokyo

Other hikers look at me with pitiful eyes, when they see me go to the primitive French toilet hut in the morning. Not because of the inadequate hygiene in that cabin - we are used to that by now - but because they heard someone coughing and throw up during the night. And throwing up …

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Mount Everest Base Camp Trek, Day 6: Dole – Macchermo

We give a handful of instant coffee bags to the lady of the lodge, who gave us such a sweet advice yesterday. Coffee is bad for altitude sickness, so why drag those bags along? And the poor people here are happy with it. She gives us the contact details of another lodge in Machhermo and …

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Mount Everest Base Camp Trek, Day 5: Phortse Tenga – Dole

By the time we get up, a whole religious ritual must have already taken place in the dining room, because there is a piercing scent of incense. The little daughter of the house who taught us a few Nepali words yesterday, welcomes us to the rhythm of her homemade cymbals from two empty tuna cans. …

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Mount Everest Base Camp Trek, Day 4: Namche Bazar – Phortse Tenga

Good news. The diarrhea is a lot better. But unfortunately there is also bad news. My lungs have also received a considerable setback. I have a terrible sore throat and the coughing gives me stabbing pains in my lungs. Apparently this is a typical condition at this altitude. It is caused by a combination of …

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Mount Everest Base Camp Trek, Day 3: Acclimatization at Namche Bazar

We get out of bed at 7 am and order ourselves a simple breakfast at the lodge. The weather isn’t looking very promising. Dense fog is stuck to the mountain tops. For our acclimatization tour that is programmed for today, we intend to climb slowly to almost 4000 meters above sea level and then descend …

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